Learn how? 3D print
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Please read safety things before using anything –
It is hazardous and it may give you an allergic reaction that you really don’t want (been there still got the skin problem) but it’s not toxic or sometimes it can be. Respiratory Irritation
Breathing highly concentrated epoxy vapor can irritate the respiratory system and cause sensitization. Serious health problems can result from sanding epoxy before it is fully cured. When you inhale these dust particles, they become trapped in the mucous lining of your respiratory system. Because it can cause eye, nose, and throat irritation. And dust from polyurethane resin is highly toxic.
The pure epoxy resins are considered as non-toxic, the risk of damage caused by ingestion of epoxy resin can be considered as very small. Most curing agents in use today have certain toxicity. Inhalation of epoxy resins causes no problems as they are not volatile.
The difference is that SLA works by flashing a laser — a tiny dot of concentrated light — across a given area to harden it and create a layer. In contrast, DLP machines cure all areas of a layer simultaneously, by projecting light onto the resin in the shape of that layer.
We can use liquid resin to produce 3D prints. Since we are dealing with a liquid material, an additional support structure is necessary for overhanging parts and cavities. The average 3D printer material cost for standard SLA resins is approximately $50 per liter. That means entry-level, cheap resins may even be under $50. MakerJuice offers a standard resin for SLA 3D printing, which costs $58 per liter.
Many resins are actually quite toxic, and we wrote on this some time ago. … However, remember that some resins ARE safe, it’s just that many are not – and they should be treated appropriately. The second issue with resin 3D printing is curing, the process that makes the resin solid.
Comments from video,
1 day ago
The LCD screen is a consumable item and it is not covered by the warranty on most manufacturers. They are not meant to last forever although I have found that they are very sensitive. You need to strain the resin after every print as any dried resin that is left in the vat will damage the pixels when the next print starts.
22 hours ago
@ualdayan I have six resin printers and have been through the rounds. The LCD screen is a consumable. That has been stated to me directly by the manufacturers. If you read the fine print in the warranty you will see that stated as well. The life expectancy of an LCD screen is supposed to be close to 800 hours. I have never gotten close to that.
18 hours ago
Great information. LCDs tend to be very temperature sensitive so maybe that is an issue.
1 day ago
As stated by others below, this is to do with UV Exposure and heat. Be wary of ‘high speed’ resins. They have a higher exothermic reaction rate which can also damage the LCD. Using an infrared thermometer i tested ‘AmeraLabs’ AMD-3 LED resin which is a super fast cure resin (2.5 sec per layer at 0.03) and it was curing at nearly 54 degrees Celsius on my mars. When the LCD’s are made they are supposed to have a UV filter film added to lengthen their lifespan which obviously they can’t do for these printers. I’ve had screens last months and screens last weeks. Theres nothing you can do to really affect it other than use standard curing resins that don’t give off as much heat and make sure you do usual checks to make sure your vat and build plate are clean etc etc.
15 hours ago
@Dean Rockne As someone that has built PCs…often quieter fans are the better ones actually. Better bearings, lower turbulence, more efficient…all of these make the fan quieter for the same or better cooling.
If heating manages to be a problem, it’d be nearly instant spot heating…which would be practically impossible to cool. Basically, you’d need to chill the resin in the reservoir so that any temperature increase is offset…and I don’t think the resin would respond too well to that. You’re supposed to keep them at room temperature.
13 hours ago (edited)
It’s a simple problem, the screens are not designed to work with the UV light, product of cheap printers they use cheap screens. You are looking at over $1000USD wholesale for a screen rated for the UV light to fit these printers, that’s a lot of $30 screen replacements
Awesome to be green:)
3D printing technology to be fully Eco-friendly.3D printing technology uses large amounts of energy, larger than the amount used by milling and drilling machines.
If you think about failed prints you may somehow eventually recycle the plastic.
Plastics products may take up to a thousand years to compost while PLA products compost within 3-6 months in a composting system.
PLA- is made from renewable sources, such as starch – corn, potatoes, soy protein, cellulose, and lactic acid, cassava, sugarcane or sugar beet pulp, all of them are compostable, but this process is only considered “composted” The material breaks down into carbon dioxide, water, and biomass.
3D printing waste happens –
when sometimes layers aren’t sticking together properly in mid-print and depending on the model’s geometry it might cause a failure.
This could be because you’re 3D printing at a temperature that’s a bit too low.
Increase the print temperature slightly and ensure those layers fuse into each other.
In 3D printing, two most common filaments to print with are ABS plastic, PLA, polyamide (nylon), glass filled polyamide, stereolithography materials (epoxy resins), silver, titanium, steel, wax, photopolymers, and polycarbonate.
3D printing uses sustainable manufacturing method. Because it reduces waste.
Later its applications range from medical devices to aerospace — and possibly even drinking water.
ABS – is a thermoplastic that is great for 3D printing because of its strength and durability. This material is not biodegradable or compostable but can be recycled.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which Lego is made from, is a safe plastic. BabyBjorn also uses ABS – it’s BPA free. Plastics made from corn starch resin are lumped into the #7 category, and these are BPA free too.
Nylon – is BPA free, and it’s a #7.
These numbers are for which plastics are healthier for you and more easily recyclable?
What do the numbers on plastics mean?
#1 plastics: PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate)(Is it safe? -No)
#2 plastics: HDPE (high-density polyethylene)(Is it safe?- YES)
#3 plastics: PVC (polyvinyl chloride or plasticized polyvinyl chloride)(Is it safe?- NO)
#4 plastics: LDPE (low-density polyethylene)(Is it safe?-YES)
#5 plastics: PP (polypropylene)(Is it safe?- YES)
#6 plastics: PS (polystyrene)(Is it safe?-NO)
#7 plastics: other (all other plastics, including acrylic and nylon)(Is it safe?- NOT SURE)
If you want to reuse any material
can re-heat the material to use it again in a filament recycler.
If we like to do some craftwork, get a ‘ProtoCycler’ and make your filament.
This kind recycler will smash failed prints into smaller pieces, melt them down, and force the liquid plastic through an opening.